Working with a Porta Cable Polisher

If you don't know what a Porta Cable Polisher is, there is no need to read on...

Keep repeating the steps below (1-4) using progressive pressure. You want to keep working the product into the panel until you have seen it go through these phases:

1) Wet/application
2) Wet/pre-buffing
3) Flashing (not really hazed, not really wet)
4) Hazed (mostly dry)
5) Dry (turns powdery while buffing over it)

Once you hit phase 5, you can stop and buff off the remaining residue by hand. When buffing residue, always use a straight-line, back-and-forth motion. You don't want to introduce new swirls! :-)

Typically, it should take about 3-4 minutes to go through those 5 phases. Depending on the types of swirls you're dealing with, you can increase speed and pressure as necessary. Just remember that more speed + more pressure = more aggressive, so be careful around body ridges and raised surfaces. If it's taking you more than 3-4 minutes, you're using too much product.

Remember, more product doesn't equal better results, it just means more wasted product and more time behind the buffer.

Once you're done with that small section, determine if you've accomplished what you're trying to fix before moving on to the next section (so, in our example, if we were doing the hood, I'd move on to the next area of the hood). As with everything detailing, work "top to bottom" when buffing your car. Start with the roof, do the hood, the decklid, the doors, the fenders and finally the rockers and bumpers.

If you're happy with the initial results, continue buffing the rest of the vehicle (as noted above). If not, you might need to try a slightly more aggressive product. Here's a little guide to help pick the right product and pad for the job:


WOOL PAD + DACP or FI-II
USE CAUTIOUSLY. This is the most aggressive combination you can use with the PC. Cutting action will be strong and fast. Only for use with removing the heaviest swirls. Speed should be around 4.5 - 5.0 with light to moderate pressure. Must be followed up with a less aggressive product/pad combo.

WOOL PAD + SMR
USE CAUTIOUSLY. Not as aggressive as above, but can still cause trouble. For use with moderate swirl removal. Same speed, pressure and follow-up as above.


YELLOW PAD + DACP or FI-II
Great for cutting through most swirls. Safe and effective. Use speed 4.0 - 5.0 with moderate pressure. Should be followed up with SMR and yellow pad for best results. Be sure to spend a lot of time on each section when applying - really work it in for best results.


YELLOW PAD + SMR
Very safe way to remove swirls from vehicles. Yellow pad makes the SMR just a little more effective, and results are usually quite spectacular. This is a good starting point for people who have a swirled vehicle. Only go more aggressive if necessary (ie: DACP/FI-II or wool). Speed range: 4.0 - 5.5, moderate to heavy pressure, taking your time to really work it in. Follow-up with a glaze or polish.


WHITE PAD + SMR
White pad will minimize the effects of SMR. Fairly mild swirl removal action, generally not used by many folks unless they're trying to remove very faint spiderweb-style swirl marks. Safe at any almost speed and pressure. Follow-up with glaze.


WHITE PAD + DACP or FI-II
Mimics the application of DACP or FI-II by hand. Keep speeds around 4 for best results, using moderate pressure. This isn't a combination that I'd normally use, as the white pad is just a little too soft to make good use of the DACP or FI-II.


WHITE PAD + GLAZE
A great combination is the White pad and P21S Gloss Enhancing Paint Cleanser (GEPC). If using a glaze with the white pad, it's best to keep speeds between 3.5 and 4.5, with moderate to light pressure. Really pays to work the glaze in; the longer you spend with it, the better the results will be.


GREY/BLACK PAD + WAX or GLAZE
OK for use with glaze, but white pads seem to work slightly better. When using the grey/black pad to apply wax, go light on the wax and set the speed to around 3.5 - 4.0 (MAX). Use very light pressure (mostly the weight of the machine), and take your time. You can use paste wax with the pad (use a putty knife to apply the wax like you'd butter a piece of bread), but liquid wax seems to work better. Remember, less wax = better. From my experience, the PC/black/grey pad combo isn't suitable for Zaino application; I like working Zaino by hand much better.

One final note about pad combinations: DON'T SHARE THE SAME PAD WITH DIFFERENT PRODUCTS until you've washed the pad. In other words, don't use the same Yellow pad to apply DACP and SMR...results won't be anywhere near what you expected them to be.


CARING FOR PADS AND PC
The PC itself is basically maintenance free. You shouldn't need to do much with it other than keep it clean and keep it stored in a clean, dry place. I have friends who keep their PC's in those Rubbermaid containers or nylon duffel bags. I happen to have a Porter Cable case for mine, which seems to work pretty well.

Cleaning the pads is fairly straightforward. Get yourself a shallow wash bin (like you'd set in a sink for washing dishes) and some laundry detergent (I like to use Dreft or Woolite). Mix up a soapy water mix, using warm water (not hot). Soak the pads in the soapy solution for about 5-10 minutes. Use your hands to knead the pads and to "squeeze" as much compound/wax out of the pads as possible. Rinse them with cool water and repeat the wash as necessary. When done, wring the pads, or roll them like you'd roll a tortilla shell, using firm pressure to work as much water out of the pad as possible. Allow them to air dry (no heated dryers).


MISCELLANEOUS TIPS/TRICKS/TIDBITS
Like many detailing ventures, you learn little tricks as you spend more time with your vehicle and tools/products. Here's a few things that might be of interest.

Using water as a "primer"... A common myth is that using water to dampen a pad makes the product more "gentle". FALSE - it makes it more aggressive. The moisture interferes with the "buffers" in the compound. I use water in a spray bottle with SMR when I need just a little more "bite" than plain-old SMR.

Using a PC makes the work easier...Yes, and No. It does take some of the manual labor out of the process, but it's not as simple as "wipe on, wipe off". The PC works best when given a chance to really work - be sure to always work your products in completely for best results.

Practice...One of the best things you can do is buy yourself a set of $20 sawhorses from Lowes, and a $50 decklid from the local salvage yard. Practice on that panel with your PC - go crazy on it. Learn how each product and pad reacts to different situations, worry free. This may be the best $100 you'll ever spend.

Use Rapid Strokes...when you have a stubborn swirl area; rather than use the prescribed overlapping motions that I outlined earlier, use fast back-and-forth motions with moderate pressure over the area. This is a tip that Bret showed me a while ago, and it works well. I don't prefer this technique for the whole car, but it works well on those "trouble" areas.

Finish with corresponding strokes...hard to describe, but let's try. If you're working the hood, finish with strokes that mimic the airflow across the vehicle - work "bumper to bumper" on your last few passes. If you're working on a door, finish with "roof-to-ground" strokes on the last few passes.

Have plenty of pads available...Do not mix products on the same pad unless you've washed and dried the pad first. In other words, don't try to save a few bucks by only buying 1 yellow and 1 white pad if you know that you're going to need more than one of each. At the very minimum, order two of each pad - you'll thank me later.